The next step was the test the compression. You need a compression tester and it goes into the threaded area for the spark plug. Compression was surprisingly good. For a Honda CB360 it should read about 120 cold and around 170 warm. The compression was lower on the left, but nothing ground breaking. Another question answered, but opened up space for 1000 other questions. God bless old motors.
Next step was to take a look at the valves. On top on each cylinder are threaded tappet valve covers. I noticed that mine had a small oil leak on the right side, since the get go. when I took it out this is what I saw…
It had been tightened so much by someone, that the thread was split in a spiral and had siliconed been together instead of replacing it (very cheap and often anyone who works on old Japanese bikes has one laying around). That explained the leak for now. I replaced the cover and moved on. Once we got inside the cover of the left (weaker) side we did a valve adjustment. Follow the manual and its pretty straight forward.
The stator cover needs to be removed.
Don’t be alarmed, oil will come out. The little notches on the flywheel indicate the setting position for which valve you’re adjusting. Check your specs in your manual. Mine had to be aligned with the LT, for the Left. Held there while you do the adjustment. You need Feeler Gauges. The flexible ones work best. Your specs will be in the manual for each model. The larger should tug it slightly, while the smaller should have a semi easy snug fit. Man what a difference that adjustment has made so far. Haven’t had another fouling issue since. Has been running on both cylinders and sounding great since.