Recently there have been extensive issues with my clutch. Shifting, sticking, eventually unable to get into neutral. There was a ground-down, improper clutch handle itself on the bike, along with an old, worn clutch cable. First I decided to replace the clutch cable, as the factory handle still didn’t seem to fit right. To take off that side cover (on the left hand side of the bike, to the right of the stator cover over the stator), I had to loosen and slide down an old rusty clamp on the tail pipe, remove the foot peg and then remove the shifter pedal. When I took off the housing where the clutch cable sits, this is what I saw. Just one of the many lies I was told when buying this bike for a cost way more than I was comfortable with, with the false promise of all of these updates and repairs having been done (let alone even checked). NUTS. An animal had clearly been living in it, in its days as a barn bike in Vermont.
After letting out the adjustment nuts at the handle itself, then loosening the lock nut(s) on top of the cover to give it slack, i removed the old cable and began the cleaning process. You expect a load of grease in there, but it shouldn’t look how mine did. There should be ample grease in the ballbearing, seal and retainer, it needs it to move freely. After I cleaned out the goo and nuts, I slide the old cable out at the handle, by aligning the open gaps and followed in through the body, into the clutch housing. Attached internally to the spring loaded lever, it slid into the housing. It was a bit tight, but eventually sat comfortably.
Replaced the cover and bolted it back in place. Then came rerouting it through the mid section, back up the forks to the handle. Pretty straight forward. I added a new factory clutch handle, with some finagling, as the slot it fits into seemed to have been bent at some point. Then the adjustment. Follow your manual for your specific bike, obviously. Every bike is different. Honda CB 360s call for you to loosen at the handle, then loosen the lock nuts on top of the clutch housing, then to do the clutch adjustment.
This is a small flathead screw surrounded by a nut on the housing. You should loosen the outer nut so it has some slack, then turn the screwdriver (while using the wrench to hold the outer nut in place) in the direction shown in the manual, until resistance is felt. Once resistance is felt you turn it the opposite direction one quarter turn and tighten the outer nut. You should be able to feel resistance in the handle itself at this point.
Trial and error has been key with this clutch but the final adjustment, by the book, seems to have done it. Its been flowing smoothly between gears and back into neutral, which I prefer at lights. Presto, you have a new functioning clutch (as far as the cable and handle are concerned).